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Sunday, January 13, 2008; 7:44 PM

Endurance Drills

Endurance drills can be relatively simple but should be at least mildly fun. It takes a
different mental approach to think that pushing yourself on a wall for 10-20 minutes in fun,
but you should try and take that approach. Something to think about is that everyone gets
pumped, it is the person who does more moves while pumped that will win the competition.
Try and learn how to push yourself when pumped.
For most people their footwork and technique are the rst things that fail them when
they start to get tired. When doing these drills really concentrate on being as ecient
as possible especially when you start getting tired. It doesn't make sense to make moves
harder than they have to be especially when you are pumped.
Some good endurance drills are:

One and Ones
One and Ones involve climbing one route, lowering down and immediately getting on
a second route. The first route should be very hard for you and you should barely be
able to do it. The second route should be easier but you should have to fight to do it
while tired. A variation on this is to do the easier route first and then the harder route
to see if you can still make it to the top of the harder route.
This drill is good for the transition from power endurance training to endurance training
because the routes should be familiar after trying to redpoint them, and you are adding
more moves onto them. Remember you want to complete approximately 60 moves.

Circuit Training
Circuit training is good for endurance training becuase you don't have to downclimb
routes or worry about ropes. You should try and create a circuit that goes in a loop and see how many times you can do the loop. Record exactly where you get to, the
number of moves and the time on the wall, and try and improve on this each time
you get on the circuit. Try and complete more than 60 moves in a row and adjust the
diculty of the circuit accordingly.
Try two attempts at the circuit per workout with at least 10 minutes rest between
attempts.

Laps on Routes
Try and up and down climb routes for at least 10 minutes. You will have to experiment
to find out which routes work best for you but the routes should be at least slightly
overhanging. Vertical routes provide too many opportunities to rest. The key to this
drill is the amount of time on the wall not necessarily the diculty of the route. You
want to get pumped but more importantly you want to be moving constantly.
This is a good drill to do near the end of a workout when you are already tired.

Fixed Time on the Wall
Pick an area where you can boulder and set a timer for between 10 and 20 minutes.
Start the timer and do not leave the wall until your time is up. Here you should play
around with different moves of varying difficulty. Concentrate on what type of holds
you can hold onto when pumped and body positions for rests etc. This is a good drill
to practice some of the resting techniques on.

Aslam--

Doing The Impossible.