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Sunday, January 13, 2008; 7:16 PM

Power Endurance Drills

The following are some drills that you can do on your own or with a partner to increase
your power endurance.

Bouldering
Increase the number (volume) of boulder problems that you are attempting in a workout.
Decrease the rest time between problems and always start each attempt from the
first move (don't work individual moves). This allows you to pull lots of hard moves in
a short period of time. Try and do three or four boulder problems in 5 minutes then a
short rest 3-5 minutes, and repeat 3-4 times.

Linked Boulder Problems
Linking together two or three boulder problems is a very eective way of extending the
number of moves that you are doing. Start with a hard problem that you can barely
do, move to one that you can do quite easily but can't stop and rest/recover on, and
then move on to a problem that is again quite hard for you. You will have to take this
drill into account when you are setting problems or else it will be too hard to link them
together. Two things can be accomplished with this drill; one you are climbing lots of
hard moves; and two you are climbing routes that you have already done so you should be determined and will yourself not to fall.
With this drill you can partner up with one or two people and rotate through. Attempt
each link up 3 times with 3-5 minutes for rest in between attempts. If you are not
completing 20 moves then try and change up the boulder problems that you are doing,
if you are always completing the linkup then make the boulder problems harder.
This drill is especially eective when you are starting the transition between bouldering
and power endurance training. The problems should still be very hard and chances are
you will not be on the wall for more than 3 minutes per attempt.

Redpoints
Redpointing routes can be a great way of training power endurance if you are making
it at least 15 moves into the route each time and the route does not provide lots of
areas for resting. If you do not have long routes available to you then you can link
routes together in a similar fashion to the linked boulder problems, or try and be tired
by the time you go to start redpointing.

Circuit Training
Make your own climbing circuit of between 20 and 40 moves. The moves should be
powerful, consistent and not provide holds for resting. Try to vary the terrain that the
circuit crosses and try and distribute the move/hold types evenly for both arms. The
great thing about circuit training is that you can tailor it to your needs. You set the
circuit for yourself and if it is too easy you can make the holds harder or take away
footholds. If it is too hard then add a foothold or make the holds slightly easier. Once
again you should try and be on the wall for between 3-6 minutes and attempt the same
circuit 3 times in a row with a 5 minute rest in between attempts. On the first attempt
you should complete the circuit and on the third attempt you should get very near the
end. If you complete it all three times then make it harder, and if you can't complete
it the first time make it easier

I got the pdf copy..if u one e-mail me..its kinda useful cos it tells u how to train both mental n physical..train hard guys for french school..
Aslam

Doing The Impossible.